Introduction | Bill of Materials | Y-axis Assembly | X-axis Assembly | Connecting X-axis and Z-axis | Motor Installation | X and Y-Axis Motion | Heated Bed Assembly | Extruder Installation | Electronics and Wiring | Firmware Configuration | Validation and Testing | Working with Files and Printing
Insert two M4 nuts in the bottom mounting nut traps. You may need to trim the traps or use heat to fit the nuts.
Slide an M8x20 mm grub screw through a 608zz bearing. Push this assembly inside the extruder idler. You many need to cut away some plastic or use heat to fit the part.
Attach the idler assembly to the extruder body with an M3x30 mm screw and an M3 nut. Tighten but leave it loose enough for the idler to open and close.
Fit a 608zz bearing in each side of the extruder body for the hobbed bolt. Slide the large gear through the hobbed bolt and slide it through the bearings. When that is aligned, use the M8 lock nut to complete the assembly. Tighten the nut so there is no slop in the hobbed bolt but still allows for the bolt to easily turn.
Insert two M3 nuts in their slots and use two M3x60mm screws two springs with four M3 washers (one on each end of each spring) to secure the idler to body. This is the extruder idler tensioning mechanism. For now don't tighten it too tight, just enough to hold the springs in place.
Your Roaddog Labs Baja kit includes a genuine E3D brand V6Lite hot end. The assembly instructions here were derived from the E3D docs located at http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-Lite6_Assembly . The content is used under Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported license.
(Kits purchased prior to June 15, 2015 include a JHead hot end. Please see http://roaddoglabs.com/wiki/index.php?title=JHead_Assembly_Instructions for JHead assembly docs
Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into 2 x 35mm lengths with wire cutters and slide one piece onto each of the thermistor legs. It is critical that during all assembly steps and during use that the blue sleeving covers the wire legs of the thermistor right up to the glass bead at all times. The glass fibre sleeving can start to fray if the cut ends are not treated with care, and once it starts to fray it is hard to recover, so do take care. If the sleeving becomes frayed the best thing to do is to trim off the frayed parts with wire cutters.
Holding the thermistor between your finger and thumb, with the legs held together, make a 90º bend in the legs about 5mm from the sleeving.
Insert the glass bead of the thermistor into the hole shown. Be sure to insert the thermistor into the hole that is not threaded. Fasten the thermistor in place using the smaller M3x3 screw and washer.
It is helpful to place the small M3x3 screw onto the end of the supplied allen key and add the washer, the allen key can then be used to help insert the M3x2 screw into the threaded hole.
The legs of the thermistor should go around the screw, one leg on each side. The washer should clamp down firmly onto the blue sleeving and partially cover the hole in which the glass bead is inserted. Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening.
It should look like this when clamped. Note the sleeving running right down into the hole.
At this point it is worth taking a good look at your thermistor to ensure that everything is firm and secure. Visually check that the blue sleeving is insulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead. If the legs make electrical contact with the block or each other your temperature readings will be incorrect and you risk overheating.
Strip 5mm of the ends of the thermistor cable and put a 15mm length of heatshrink over each wire.
Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg, if you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the hotend it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.
Arrange the wires of the thermistor and cable alongside each other so the ferrule can slide over the pair and hold them together.
Push the ferrule over the bare portions of the wires ready to crimp into place.
Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushing them with a pair of pliers. Squeeze hard to ensure a secure connection. You can use a fancy ferrule crimping tool if you have one, but it's not needed.
Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules and shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, hot air gun or even a flame.
Insert the Heater Cartridge with the leads exiting the block the same side as the thermistor. Centre the cartridge in it's hole in the block. The ends of the heater will poke outside of either end of the block, this is normal and intentional.
Cable tie the thermistor wires to the heater cartridge wires so that they are secured such that the more delicate thermistor wires cannot be pulled away from the block.
Tighten the clamping portion of the heater block around the heater cartridge with the longer M3x10 screw. As in the photo below you should be able to see slight bend of the heater block clamp as it wraps around the cartridge for maximum thermal contact. This is normal and intentional.
Screw Nozzle into the Heater Block into the end closest to the thermistor holes. Be careful you use the same orientation as in the photograph. Unscrew the Nozzle a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn - You should see a very small gap between the hexagonal portion of the nozzle and the bottom face of the heater-block.
Screw the threaded portion of the heatsink into the top of the heater block until it butts up against the nozzle. The heatsink only needs to be screwed in hand-tight at this point, it will be tightened hot later.
It is important that the nozzle and heatsink are correctly positioned with regards to the block as show in the images above. The second image is an incorrectly assembled hotend where the heater block is positioned too high and against the heatsink.
Insert the small black collet into the top of the HeatSink, the side with the four small legs should push into the brass ring in the top of the heatsink with gentle finger pressure.
Cut the end of the PTFE that will be inserted into the hotend with a very sharp knife, a craft knife with razor sharp blade is recommended for this. Ensure that the cut end is square and flat after cutting.
Insert the PTFE tubing into the top of the heatsink through the small black collet and slide it down through the heatsink as far as it will go.
The PTFE tubing must be held securely downwards without any ability to wiggle or move. To make the collet hold the tubing securely you must simultaneously push the PTFE tubing into the hotend while pulling up on the black collet, this will pre-tension the tubing and lock it into the downwards position.
The PTFE liner in Lite6 is an important part and crucial to the correct functioning of your hotend. Please ensure you follow the instructions below with care, instead of just shoving the tubing into the hole and blindly soldiering onwards.
The PTFE guides the filament from the cold side of the heatsink right down into the hot nozzle. For it to do so effectively it must butt up against the nozzle squarely and be positively secured in that position.
Set the completed hot end assembly aside and move on to the next step. We'll return in the next section to wire and finish setting up the hot end.
The extruder fan will need to have the wires extended. The side with sticker on middle is the side that points into the duct. Mount the fan to the duct with the wires coming off the right hand side. Use M3x14 mm screws and nuts to mount the fan to the duct.
The hot end fits into the hole in the bottom of the extruder body. Perpendicular to that hole are two mount points through the extruder body. Use M3 x 30 mm screws through those holes to mount the hot end and secure with nuts once the screw is through the mounting hole.
add barrel cooling docs and pics
I usually remove the glass from the print bed for this step. If you drop the extruder and hotend just right you can crack the glass. Best to remove it.
Insert the remaining two M4 nuts in the top slots of the extruder body. Use the M4 x 20 mm screws to attach the extruder body to the X carraige.
Slide the small gear on the motor shaft. You will likely have to enlarge the gear hole but the gear should offer some resistance when inserted on the shaft. With an M3 set screw and an M3 nut inserted in the slot on the gear, tighten the set screw against the flat part of the motor shaft. Be careful how much you tighten the gear as you may collapse the nut trap in the gear.
Mount the motor and gear on the extruder body, wires up, using the three mounting holes. Leave the motor mount screws a loose so there is play.
You will have to wiggle the motor and the big gear on the hobbed bolt to get the herringbone gears to mesh. This may require you to loosen the hobbed bolt and maneuver the gears until they mesh. Refer to Step 6 in the extruder assembly section above for a pic of what it should look like.
(better pic for motor mount)
Attach the fan duct assembly to the extruder body using the mounting tab on the extruder body. Use an M3 x 30 mm screw and nut to mount the fan, tightening it enough to hold the duct but still allowing for the duct to move as a hinge.